1993-1998 Toyota 4Runner Pickup T100 Steering Idler Arm
Price list
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Specification
| Brand | Foreign Parts Distributors, Mevotech, Moog, Pro Steering, QuickSteer, SKP, TRW Automotive |
|---|---|
| MPN | K80536, MK80536, FPD 126135, SKP 80536, TRW JIA215, FA5040 |
| Year | 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 |
| Make | |
| Model | 4Runner, Pickup, T100 |
| Trim | Base Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door, Base Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door, DLX Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door, DLX Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door, DX Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door, DX Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door, One-Ton DLX Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door, One-Ton Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door, SR5 Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door, SR5 Sport Utility 4-Door, SR5 Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door |
| Engine | 2.4L 2366CC l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated, 2.7L 2694CC l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.0L 2959CC V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.4L 3378CC V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated |
| Placement on Vehicle | Front |
| Fitment Type | Direct Replacement |
| Warranty | 1 Year |
| Part Number | K80536, MK80536, FPD 126135, SKP 80536, TRW JIA215, FA5040, 19080536, 450-1109, 450-1109B, FA5040GL, 21043, 45490-39375, K80536, RK80536 |
| Condition | New |
Fit In Five Steps
How to replace a Toyota 4Runner Idler Arm?
1.Tools You’ll Need Repair
- 18mm – 1/2 drive wrench and socket
- Pitman arm puller
- 5/16 – 1/2 drive Socket and a long breaker bar / pipe
- 11/16 and 5/8 – 1/2 drive socket and wrench
- Torque wrench that goes to 180 ft lbs
- Diag wire cutter
- Flat head screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers
- Jack stands and a floor jack
- Grease
- 2 Cotter pins 1/8 x 1-1/2
- New Idler arm
2.Removing the Idler Arm
I did this lying on the floor of my garage. This is one of those jobs that will leave you wishing you had a lift. If you do, great! If not, jack up the truck under the right A-arm and remove the right wheel. Put a 6-ton jack stand under the frame and let the truck down on the stand. I also leave the floor jack under the A-arm as a precaution. You don’t want the truck to fall on you. Remove the cotter pin from the nut on the idler. Take a 15/16 (or appropriate size) socket and a long breaker bar and remove the nut. I put a long piece of pipe on the breaker bar to get the nut loose.
3.Remove the Idler Arm Bolts
Next, with the cotter pin and giant nut removed from your arm, remove the 2 bolts that fasten the idler arm to the frame. In my case, there was an 11/16 nut and a 5/8 bolt. Now comes the fun part.
4.Separate the Idler Arm From the Centerlink
Separating the idler arm and the centerlink can be a real pain. You should use a Pitman puller, but some pitman pullers don’t fit on the idler so you’re forced to muscle it off with a pickle fork. Trim some metal off of the inside of your Pitman puller and you can use it to remove the idler.
5.Pause, Then Reinstall the Idler Arm
If you’re going to replace the Pitman arm do it now before you reinstall the idler. With the idler removed the center link will drop down allowing you to pull the Pitman arm out. Once you do it you will see what I mean. If the new Pitman is in or you’re not doing that job today, go ahead and finish up the idler arm. Prepare a new cotter pin to match the one you removed by trimming it with the diagonal pliers so that both the long and short end match the pin you removed. Place the idler arm’s bolt in the centerlink. Insert the new bolts through the frame making sure to put the new washers under the bolt heads. Position the idler arm so the frame bolts slide through the bolt holes. Install the washers and the nuts. Torque to your car’s specs. Install the large nut on the idler arm centerlink bolt. Tighten to spec taking care to line up the cotter pin holes. Always tighten to align the holes, never go backwards! Install the new cotter pin, grease the arm and you are finished.
$28.53 $28.38
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