2006-2009 Land Rover Range Rover Genuine Towing Hitch Harness Wires Kit Set

Fit In Five Steps

How to replace a Land Rover Range Rover Towing Hitch Harness Wires?

1.Removing The Loadspace Trim Panels

The trailer harness enters the loadspace through a pre-cut hole in the bodywork, runs along the rear of the spare tire compartment, and makes various connections to the rear fusebox panel, located behind the right rear loadspace trim panels. It is easiest to start by removing all the necessary panels for access. First, the floor panel covering the spare tire is lifted to its fully up position, and can then be easily lifted out. Similarly, the panel covering the storage compartment under the right rear of the load space can be hinged up and lifted out, then the vertical panel immediately to its right can be pulled out by pulling on the black plastic handle at its top. The molded black plastic liner of the previously mentioned storage compartment can now be lifted out vertically.

2.Removing The Black Plastic Molding

Removing the black plastic molding. Black arrow shows the location of a removed plastic stud; immediately above it is the location of another removed plastic load retainer. The three large diameter holes running diagonally across the middle of the picture are the locations of the recessed plastic nuts retaining the molding. The two white arrows indicate required upward pull on the molding’s outer edge to release two hidden plastic clips.

3.Routing And Securing The Wiring Harness

Here is a point on which I found the instructions a bit vague — get underneath the rear of your vehicle and peer up in front of the bumper. You will see a rectangular rubber bung sealing a hole in the bodywork, about 18 inches to the left of the hitch receiver. Pull off the rubber seal and poke the trailer wiring harness through it into the spare wheel well so the trailer plug ends up outside the hole. The replacement rubber seal that surrounds the harness can be re-inserted into the rectangular hole.

From inside the spare tire compartment, you can now route the harness’s main bundle of wires to the right against its rear wall, in the direction of the rear fuse box.The two loose white wires with ring lugs on their ends are grounded to the body a bit to the left of the entry point.

Running the main harness bundle across the back of the compartment, there is one plastic clip that secures it in place, but otherwise, it fairly naturally falls into place. Where it crosses into the right rear loadspace/fusebox area, there is a metal edge sticking up, but the wire bundle is protected at this point by a thick cloth wrapping. From this point, the harness is run vertically against the existing wire bundle going up into the rear fuse box compartment.

4.Connections To Rear Fusebox

After mounting the ECU, the two multiplugs at the end of the harness can be connected – the black one to the top of the ECU and the white one to the white plug mentioned above, which can then be restored to its mounted position. Then, you can insert the new relay supplied in the kit into the empty spot at the top left of the relay cluster, and replace fuse 1 with a 30 amp fuse (not supplied).

It actually comes from the brake terminal on the trailer plug, but no provision is made for its termination. It would be an easy matter for a land rover to provide for it to be connected to the main wiring harness and emerge in the vicinity of the driver’s feet so an aftermarket trailer brake controller could be simply plugged in like it can be for Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Toyota and Nissan trucks and SUVs. As thing stand, however, you have to wire up a brake controller to this blue wire manually. First, remove the connector

We are now done with the wiring unless you are towing a trailer that has brakes – in this case, you need to run the “unused” blue wire referred to above forward to the vicinity of the driver’s feet. This and other details of brake controller installation are dealt with separately on the trailer brake control wiring page.

5.Reassembly

When replacing the plastic molding that holds the tools etc on the right side of the loadspace floor, the plastic nuts are hard to get back on to their deeply recessed bolts. A magnetic socket is no use, but I found a pair of very long nosed pliers helped I getting the nuts into position and the threads started.

The two-part plastic studs that hold the carpeted trim pieces in place come out easily enough, but putting them back in is another matter. I found that extending them to their full length allowed me to squeeze the ends together enough to get them back into their holes, after which a hard push or a bash with a hammer seated them back into place.