1977-1992 Ford Bronco E-Series F-Series V8 11inch New Clutch Kit
Price list
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Specification
Brand | |
---|---|
MPN | 07-034, 07-057S, 07057 381043 K0064-0 |
Year | 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 |
Make | |
Model | Bronco, E-Series, F-Series |
Trim | Sports Utility 2-door / Cargo Van 2-door / Passenger Van 2-door / Cutaway 2-door / Cab Pickup 2-door |
Placement on Vehicle | Front |
Fitment Type | Direct Replacement |
Material | HD Woven Organic |
Release Type | Push |
Engine Torque | 390 lb-ft., 405HP |
Disc Type | Dampened |
Kit Includes | Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing |
Dimensions | 238 mm X 25.4 mm 21T |
Country/Region of Manufacture | United States |
Warranty | 1 Year |
Part Number | 07-015D, 07-034, 07-057S, 07057 381043 K0064-04, 32321G, 52802007 90249 N00331 |
Condition | New |
Fit In Five Steps
How to replace a Ford Bronco E-Series & F-Series Clutch Kit?
1.Secure Vehicle
First steps involve disconnecting the battery, unbolting the shifter within the cabin (two bolts), and with the car off the ground, undoing the clutch cable from the fork lever within the dust cover on the side of the gearbox. The clutch cable needs to be slackened by loosening the adjustment nuts at the firewall in the engine bay. Next, disconnect the sensor wires from the gearbox and loosen and then disconnect handbrake cable so the gearbox can be removed.
2.Remove Screws & Bolts
The tail shaft has to come out, which is a straightforward removal of four nuts and bolts. A section of the exhaust has to come out to help with access. Bolts located on the exhaust are generally difficult to remove due to dirt, rust and the constant expanding and contracting of the hot exhaust pipe. A penetrant, such as WD40, can help loosen difficult bolts.
3.Remove Old Clutch Assembly
With everything out of the way, remove the starter motor and begin removing the bell housing bolts. Some bolts may be difficult to access and require extra tools such as long extensions, swivel joints, and breaker bars. Next, remove the gearbox. If it is only you, then you could use a gearbox jack or similar, or if you are on the ground, then you could also use a trolley jack. It really is a two-person job, however. Remove the old pressure plate and flywheel. To keep the engine from rotating while removing the flywheel bolts, use a large screwdriver slotted into the teeth and locked against the body.
4. Install New Clutch Assembly
A second-hand flywheel was purchased from a wrecker and machined up so it was ready to go. Clean the inside of the bell housing throughly. Fit the new flywheel and pressure plate and tightened to the manufacturers specified torque. A dab of locknut was used on all flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Note the use of the clutch alignment tool.
5.Reconnect Removal Parts & Check for Drive
Refitting the gearbox is largely a reverse process including reconnecting all the cables and wires. Clutch cable is adjusted at the firewall by turning the two bolts (the second locks off against the first). The clutch telemetry should find the friction point after about an inch of pedal movement.
$80.56
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